I’ve been working on videos for HPDE classroom and this one I’m currently editing is supposed to show large angle oversteer from both the external and internal perspectives. Click the photo below to see the video of out-takes. Thanks to Bob for recording. (14mb download)
Click the second photo to download a clip on oversteer. When the car in front appears in the middle-to-right of the windshield, then the trail car is also in oversteer. Notice two things about the driver’s inputs: 1. Quick to catch; and 2. Smooth. (30mb download)
If your HVAC controls are starting to wear or the screens are starting to go bad (as were mine), the replacement is a simple DIY repair with only minimal tools and skills. With the car powered off — I suppose you should actually disconnect the battery — begin by removing the trim around the HVAC control unit. Carefully pry it free using a plastic pry tool. My car has the HVAC controls in the lower position. It may be located instead in the position below the radio, but the process is essentially the same. Once the trim is removed, remove the screws on either side. If in the lower position, remove the batwings. There is a lower tab that sits behind the cross member that’s at the top of the batwings that you have to press up as you pull out the control unit. The wire harness may be very short, so spin the unit in the opening and pinch each of the connectors to release them. Note the order and color of the connectors for when it’s time to reconnect them. Connect the new control unit to the connectors. If unsure of the condition of the new control unit, reconnect the battery and turn the ignition key to the accessory position. Check functions. If all is OK, then press the control unit into position, reinstall screws, reposition batwings, and replace trim. It should take you 10-15 minutes at most.
While in Los Angeles last week, I dropped by the Peterson Automotive Museum on Wilshire Blvd. I didn’t have time to visit the vault, but now I have a reason to go back.
Last summer we showed you how you could restore old headlights using Mequiar’s restoration kit. In this post, we’ll show you how to replace the headlights altogether. We chose a set of aftermarket headlights from Spyder. The process is not complex, but since you have to remove the front bumper cover, budget a couple of hours for completion.
If you think your current headlights are aimed in more or less the right direction, start off parking near a wall. Turn on your lights and mark the beams with painters tape on the wall. You’ll use these marks to adjust the new headlights later. Remove any trim from the backside of the lights. The headlights are held in with four Torx bolts. Two of the bolts can be reached from above with the hood open. The other two are behind the bumper cover.
To remove the bumper cover, start by removing the four Torx screws in each wheel well. You will have to remove the front grille to remove the bumper cover as well. Start by removing the hood release. Pry up on the metal clip, then pry the T handle off the latch mechanism. The grill pulls forward and up to remove. Remove the two Torx screws behind the main grille. Remove the lower grilles to get to the two Torx Screws hidden behind them. Remove the amber side markers by pushing in on the edge nearest the front of the car and carefully prying out with a screwdriver on the edge furthest away. Wrap the screwdriver in electrical tape to protect the paint. The bumper cover should now pull forward. You do not need to remove it completely, just expose the lower headlamp screws.
Pull the headlamp forward to remove and carefully unplug the connector. The plastic VW uses can become very brittle, so take care not to damage it. Clean the opening once the headlamp has been removed. Connect the new headlamp, slide into position and secure. Installation is the reverse of removal. Use a 6mm allen wrench to adjust the light beams to match your marks on the wall. If you’re completely lost on how to adjust them, start reading here.
Some additional thoughts: The replacement lights have built-in fog-lights. The standard US light switch does not have a setting for fog-lights (or even parking lights for that matter.) Upgrading to the Euro switch takes care of the switch problem, but does not provide wiring. You can get a wiring harness, however, that will connect your new switch to your new fog-lights. As soon as it arrives, we’ll add it to the post.
To remove the old switch, just push in on the knob and twist to the right. The whole switch will rotate clockwise and pop out. The wire you need to add goes into slot number 8. On the headlight connector, it’s slot number 2.
When deciding the feature set of the first generation Cooper S, MINI USA decided not to make the rear fog light available in the USA. The rear tail lights of the 2002-2004 cars were actually wired for it, but from 2005-2006 the cars shipped with a blanking plate in place of the center mounted rear fog light. That always bothered me. It’s bad enough that the faux grill inserts in the rear bumper don’t actually do anything, but the center mounted plug is just stupid looking. Fortunately there a couple of options if you want to do something about it.
The light is MINI part number 63247166015 and it should cost under $30, including the bulb and socket. The plug is removed by using pry tools on either end from the back side of the bumper cover. You should be able to reach it without having to drop the exhaust, but do not try to pry from the outside until you pop the tabs from the back.
If you recall this post from the 2002-2004 rear fog light mod, you could just grab a diode and make it an additional brake light. Follow the instructions in that post, only route the wire down to your new light and then connect the light to ground. If you want to make it a stand-alone fog light, read on.
Besides the new fog light you will need to add a circuit for power, have a switch, and wire the light for power and ground. (The switch may have a relay as well.) I chose to wire the switch to a circuit that always has power. I used a Rigid Industries Lighted Rocker Switch wired to the left side of the parcel shelf under the steering wheel. The switch is out of the way so it won’t get accidentally engaged, but bright enough to see as you get out of the car if you forget to turn it off.
So why don’t you just add a switch in the blank spot on the switch panel? Because it’s not a mechanical switch panel. Those are actually electronic switches, so adding a switch to middle is not as easy as just drilling a hole and mounting it from the back. If you had one that was very shallow, perhaps you could, but I didn’t want to risk it.
Once complete, it’s also helpful to get people off of your bumper when needed as well.
Long-time readers of this blog may remember our Home-Depot inspired DIY splitter from several years ago. We’re still running it today. It’s had several coats of paint and a bit of body fill for some deep scrapes on the bottom, but in general it has held up well to several thousand miles of track use. Last Fall we added a set of Rally lights to the MINI so we had to find a new way to attach the splitter stanchons. If we were starting from scratch, we might redesign the splitter to eliminate the notch in the leading edge so we could place the stanchons in-board of the light-bar mounting bolts. But that would involve making a new splitter and buying shorter turnbuckles. And since we’re a.) cheap and b.) laze, we wanted to see if we could reuse our old parts armed with nothing but a Dremmel tool. Result.
Click the photo to see where we made the modifications. The lightbar attaches to the back of the bumper and passes through the grille. Given the length of our existing stanchons, we attached to the drop link and passed through the same opening in the grille. This involved modifying the bottom edge of the lightbar’s cross member. We touched up the modified edge with some paint and it looks pretty good.
When we picked up this 2004 Jetta last summer, we knew it had been neglected for a while. The last oil change it had was probably five years earlier. The engine was a mess, inside and out. We first tackled the grime on the outside then worried about the sludge on the inside. We knew the oil pan was dented, but since it wasn’t cracked or leaking, we decided to wait until the de-sludge-ifying was complete to repair it.
There are many schools of thought on how best to treat sludge ranging from the conservative (just do several normal oil changes in rapid succession) to the truly stupid (replace oil with diesel or kerosene). I received some advice from a trusted source who recommended ATF and it seems to have done the trick. (Do a Google search and you’ll find as many unqualified opinions that say it’s a bad idea as good. I just know it works.) The first step toward recovery is to admit you have a problem. If you pop the valve cover, and you see this, then you have a problem. Here’s how to clean it up.
- Buy enough cheap oil and filters to do three oil changes, and also get three quarts of ATF.
- Drain the oil and replace the filter.
- Fill it up with your cheap oil and substitute a quart of ATF for a quart of oil.
- Start the car and let it idle for 2-3 minutes.
- Drain the oil and notice how dark it is.
- Change filter and repeat process with new oil, ATF, and filter.
- This time idle the engine until the temperature starts to rise (but not up to full temperature).
- Drain, note the color of the oil, and change a third time with ATF and new filter.
- This time drive around the block, drain again.
- By the third flush, the oil looks mostly like new, colored by the additional ATF (a little reddish in my case.)
- Change the oil again, this time using good synthetic oil and a larger capacity oil filter (VW part #068115561B).
- Drive the car as normal for 1,000 miles and change the oil and filter one more time.
- Drive the car as normal for 3,500 miles and now you’re back on a normal interval.
That’s where we were today: Time for another oil change and a good time to finally replace the dented oil pan. When I picked up the new pan, I also got a new oil pick-up tube, since I figured it would be pretty clogged given the condition of the top side of the valve-train. Good thing I did. Here’s what we found:
Not only was it clogged, it was dented and bent. Compare that to a new one below.
The old one was bent by whatever dented the pan; smushed up against the dent; and clogged with sludge and bits of orange plastic from the dipstick tube. Just look at the mesh.
It’s a wonder that the car hadn’t been starved for oil. That must speak volumes about how robust the lubrication system really is. Good thing too.
I guess it’s actually a sad commentary on our consumer society, but I’m always pleasantly surprised when a product actually works as advertised. We started carrying Sonax car car products last year after we dropped a more expensive brand, and I’ve actually been impressed across the range of products they offer, including the Full Effect Wheel Cleaner. It has three things going for it:
- It changes from green to red as it cleans
- It is environmentally friendly
- It works.
Spray it on. Let it sit (but not dry). Rinse it off. Wipe away anything that stays behind. No scrubbing.
If you have read through this blog, you know we’re huge fans of using data and video to improve driving performance. In this post, we’ll look at options to get OBDII data from your car to your phone. If you are planning to use Harry’s Laptimer, we also suggest you start your shopping journey there. Harry is a great guy and he keeps the recommended accessory page updated (separate pages for iOS and Android.) Let’s take a look at three products that represent the spectrum of options available.
At the low end are what I’ll categorize as the “plug and pray” devices. You plug them in and prey that they work because they’re really cheap. You can find them on Amazon or ebay, often under $20 and you get what you pay for. They may work to allow you to clear some codes, but generally they are not going to maintain a secure connection long enough or fast enough to get the flow of data you’re looking for. If you found one that refreshes at a 4hrz or faster rate, then consider yourself lucky. If you’re on a tight budget, the up-side is you could buy about four of these before you spend more than the next device on our list. Our general recommendation is to stay (no, run) away from these and support the companies making an investment in this space.
Next up are the WiFi connected devices. Several good devices fit into this category and our favorite is currently the OBD Link MX by ScanTool. In fact, I wish I could carry these in our store, but haven’t found a distributor yet so search on Amazon for a deal. The data link is fast. The connection is reliable (though all of these devices take several attempts to form a connection.) It comes highly recommended by Harry and it supports a wide range of protocols. Wifi does have some disadvantages compared to Bluetooth such as complication of forming the connection (unnecessarily complex password that’s printed on the device so write it down before you plug it in) and the fact that you can only form one wifi connection at a time. You also need to disable the “ask to join networks feature” once you have a connection, or you phone may lock-up trying to connect to the paddock infrastructure hotspot as you circulate on the track. I used it for my last track weekend, plugged it in on Friday, made the connection, then forgot about it all weekend and it worked like a charm. They also make a Bluetooth version which I haven’t tried. There are more expensive recommendations on Harry’s page, but for my money, this is the sweet-spot in the market right now.
PLX Devices recently started selling the KIWI3, the latest iteration of their popular KIWI line of adapters. On paper, it offers some attractive features: high data transfer rates, easy connectivity through Bluetooth 4.1 (low energy), and good power management. The form-factor is the best of the three tested, and we like the low profile. We just couldn’t get it to work. We tested 10 devices with iPhone 5S, iPhone 6s, and Galaxy 5. We got one to connect sometimes to the iPhones. (There is a firmware update available for Android 6 users but not iPhone yet.) The price is about $20 more than the OBD Link MX. If the firmware update gets published for iPhone it may be worth it. They also announced an updated version of their old device called the KIWI2+. It has the technical specs of the old cabled device (photo right), but offered without the cable and in the new case of the KIWI3. Not sure about price and availability though. When we went to their website to grab a link it wasn’t there, so stay tuned. If you’re an Android user, it might be a slightly less expensive alternative for you to consider.